All scale model cars and miniature diecast cars

Every metal model on this page starts as a block of zamak, a zinc alloy with a little aluminium, magnesium and copper in it. The alloy is melted at about 400°C and forced under pressure into a hardened steel die, which is where the name comes from. One die produces the body shell; separate dies make the chassis, the bonnet, boot lid and doors if they open. A 1:24 body weighs around 120 g straight out of the die; a 1:18 body is closer to 400 g.

After casting, the shells are tumbled to remove flash, primed, and then sprayed in two or three coats. Badges, grilles and light detail are tampo-printed, which is a pad-printing process that lets a flat design wrap onto a curved surface, and that is why a good badge sits flush rather than standing proud like a sticker. Clear parts, tyres, interior tubs and mirrors are moulded in plastic and rubber and assembled by hand, usually by a line of eight to twelve people per model.

The steps that separate a good model from a poor one are the ones you cannot see in a photo: how tight the door hinges are set, whether the wheels sit square in the arches, and whether the paint was flatted between coats. Those are the things we check when we open a new shipment, and it is why a few models in every batch never make it to the site.

Open the outer carton first and keep it until you are happy. Inside, the model will be screwed or tied to a card or foam insert. Undo the ties with scissors rather than pulling them; the plastic tie can catch a mirror. Then work through this list.

• Panel gaps: doors and bonnet should close with an even line all round. A slightly proud door usually just needs the hinge pressed gently.
• Wheels: roll the model on a flat surface. All four tyres should touch. A slight lift at one corner is normal on pull-back cars because of the motor.
• Paint: look at the roof and bonnet in daylight. Small specks in the clear coat are normal at this price; runs and scratches are not, and we replace those.
• Lights and sound: press the buttons. If nothing happens, pull the plastic tab from the battery tray under the chassis.
• Contents: a windowed box should have its plinth; a pull-back car should have no loose parts rattling.

Heat and dust are the two enemies, and both are worse here than in the countries most models are designed for. Direct sun through a window will fade red and yellow paint within a couple of years and can warp a plastic spoiler in a single summer. A closed glass cabinet away from the window solves most of it. In coastal cities, drop a silica gel sachet into the cabinet and change it every monsoon; the alloy itself does not rust, but chrome-plated plastic parts can cloud in high humidity.

Dust with a soft, dry makeup brush. Fingerprints come off with a microfibre cloth that is barely damp with plain water. Never use glass cleaner, alcohol or polish on a model: they lift tampo prints and haze clear parts. If a tyre goes flat-spotted after months on a shelf, roll the car a few centimetres and it will recover.

The safest gift is the recipient's own car, or the car they talk about. If you do not know, SUVs are the most forgiving choice in India because everyone recognises them and there is no wrong colour. For a child under ten, buy a 1:24 with a pull-back motor. For an adult who already has a few models, buy 1:18 and match the scale they collect; mixing scales on one shelf is the thing collectors mind most.

Every order can be shipped directly to the recipient with a gift note and without a price on the invoice. Ask for it in the order notes.